My rating: 3 of 5 stars
In the end, I gave Bar Tartine: Techniques and Flavors, by Nicolaus Balla and Courtney Burns, a rating of three stars. You might say that I'm not a fan of California cuisine and neither do I embrace fusion.
It wasn't that. I simply didn't find the first half of the book - the techniques - very useful. I've been growing/grinding/drying/powdering/preserving/mixing, and experimenting with herbs, flowers, seeds, alliums, veggies, peppers, spices, fruits, and meats forever...making yogurt, sprouting beans, flavoring vinegars, pickling and preserving, simmering stocks, and prepping grapes for wine and other uses.
I'll admit to being only a beginning baker - my husband made the bread - but I've grown mushrooms, made cheese, done almost everything the book suggests at one time or another. So three stars for Part One: Techniques. Well written with solid ideas for those who need them. Not enough new in these methods to change this old foodie, set in my ways.
The second half of the cookbook is mostly about small plates and other dishes, as they are served at the Tartine Bar, using the new knowledge and growing collection that the home or restaurant cook has amassed in the pantry by working through the Techniques. All in all, Part Two: Flavors was interesting and useful though heavy on the fusion aspect, I thought. I WILL try many of these recipes.
I love to get a cocktail, or a glass of wine, or a bottle of beer, or a pastis and a glass of ice on a warm summer night and serve myself small plates - tapas from the coffee table. I gave the section four stars but knocked one off when I realized that I might prepare lots of these ideas but would probably not love the tastes nor experiment with any of them more than once. The beauty of a great cookbook is that the recipes insinuate themselves into your life through editing, trial and error, and the desire to make certain dishes again and again.
As Tartine owner Chad Robertson (who is teaching me how to bake with sourdough starter, albeit from his first cookbook Tartine Bread) wrote the Forward to this book and was also the photographer, I'm so glad that I ordered it. His layouts and pictures are beautiful...the story of the life of the restaurant in full view of the reader. If Robertson gets tired of baking bread he can always find a position as a food stylist. I also loved meeting the authors of this book, Balla and Burns. It's uplifting to find chefs who really love preparing food and make it such a part of their lives. All in all, a great teaching tool. I can see Bar Tartine becoming a textbook at culinary schools.
Bar Tartine Exterior, San Francisco. |
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